Heading Home

Nanette:

Our visit with Bermania in Managua was something were thought might not happen as the address she gave us seemed quite imprecise.   Carratera Norte, km 8, next to Subasta pharmacy.  Well, I guess it was precise enough because we found the pharmacy but there didn't seem to be any place next door where someone might llive. The people at the pharmacy sent me to the hotel next door and they were good enough to call Bermania for me.  Within minutes she and Brian were greeting us and directing us to their home.  It was right next to the pharmacy only it was behind  a tall wall with a closed gate. 

Birmania, Brian and Cesar

We were pleased to meet Brian's father Cesar and spent a few hours relaxing (some more than others) here as our flight was quite late.  Luckily for us Cesar was able to borrow a car and drive us to the airport so we  avoided the hassle of getting a taxi once again. 

Eileen decided to take another week of vacation and stayed in Florida to visit with friends.  I came home to the cold...Brrrr!! 

Eileen had a bit of a nap

Cattle truck on the way to Managua

A comfy hammock in the living room

Laguna de Apoyo

Laguna de Apoyo

Nanette:
Well, and isn't this a fabulous place to be spending our last couple of days in Nicaragua?
After a day in Masaya to visit the volcano and do a bit of shopping at the market, we bused down to the bottom of this crater to  the Paradiso Private Hostel.  The name is justified because it is a little slice of paradise for sure!  Hot sun, a stiff breeze, shady places, and wonderful, warm water to swim in... who  could ask for more?

The beach palapa

Eileen on an upper terrace

Such a relaxing spot!  Use of kayaks was included in the price of the dorm so we went out a couple of times.  It was in no way easy going. The wind is fierce and I, for one, felt like I could paddle all day and never make a bit of progress.  Eileen is a strong paddler and was often far ahead of me.  I must say, though, that it was fun to be riding the waves!  We managed to get out the second time just after sunrise when the wind was not yet up and got ourselves halfway across the lake before having to turn back.

Our mostly empty dorm



View from my bed

Sunrise

Ahh... such sorrow to have to leave!  Met a fellow Canadian, Jeremy, from Ontario who offered to drive us in his rented truck to Managua.  What a treat!  No buses or taxis to have to figure out.  Jeremy first took us back to the market in Masaya so we could pick up a few things then it was on to Managua to drop in on Birmania and Brian for a short visit.

First class chauffeur



Nicaragua - Land of active volcanoes

Nanette:

Nicaragua is filled with volcanoes, both active and not.
While we were in Masaya, we visited one of Nicaragua's most active volcanoes, Volcan Masaya, which erupted just a wee bit in 2008.  Check out this footage!  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaChWgbn18Y&feature=related

Cars must park facing out for a quick get away.  We were up at the very same spot where this video was shot.   Only noxious sulphur billowing up on the day we were there.  They say that in 2001 there was an eruption that threw out a boulder which crushed a car in the parking lot (couldn't find any video of that)

There are actually 3 craters within a short hike of each other and we had a look at 2 of them.  Masaya, so they say, is extremely dangerous because the layer of earth covering the lava is very thin.  It looked very peaceful on the day we were there. 

Masaya Crater

Nindiri  and San Pedro are both constantly spewing sulphurous gas.  It's fine when the wind is blowing it away from you but is hard to take when it's coming right at you.  

Nindiri crater

Climbing to Bobadilla cross

Bobadilla cross

This has always been a fairly active volcano and the natives used to offer sacrifices to appease the devil that they belived lived in the crater.  In the 1500's a priest erected a cross to exorsise that devil and, I imagine, as a way of stopping the sacfifices.

Nindiri Crater

Farewell to Ometepe

Nanette and Eileen:

The day has finally arrived! We must leave the island if we want to stop in Granada and Masaya. 
Lots of little last minute things to get done... shopping,  checking the progress on the earthbag house, packing, saying good-bye.  Gee we might just have to stay a while longer to get all that in!

Things are going quite well at Wilbur's place.  A couple more rows of bags are up and the door is in place, although the one volunteer who is a contractor in real life noticed that there will be a problem with the door as they continue to make the dome.  Don't know if they got it figured out but will check with somebody in a few days to find out and to maybe get pictures of the finished product.

Each row has to be tamped down and levelled

Barbed wire between layers are necessary to hold it all together

Christopher is back in town from the monestary. He and Nate are leaving today for Costa Rica where Chris's mom has a house.  He begged us to go shopping with him to help him choose some clothes.  Did we ever mention that Chris had everything but his passport stolen just before we arrived on the island?  He's been making do with very little but feels he needs something decent to travel in.  We had fun checking out his choices and stopped in at the "Divine Baby Jesus Variety Store" (I kid you not!) to see what was available. Nate loves this storename and it's been  invaluable to us as we found Alejandro's soother there as well as the 4 baseballs we purchased to leave on the island with Juan (our hotel receptionist). He met us with a request on this last morning from adult unemployed male friends who had noticed we 'gringas' visiting at his home. They have put together a team they want to have compete with other pueblos but are short of equipment ie.baseballs, to practice and play with. Juan wouldn't have asked for himself but saw this as an outlet to channel some positive energies for these guys. We were happy to acquiesce, especially as we had witnessed a lively game on our street one evening with adult participants wielding mop sticks and a mostly disintegrated ball in a tiedup plastic bag! (We're already wondering where, and then how, to get gloves and bats to them).
Once we got Chris looked after we headed up to say our good-byes to the family.  They are very sad to see us go. We made no definite promises for a speedy return.

Saying good-bye

 When trying to leave a tip with Juan we were somewhat surprised and impressed with his reluctance to take anything from us. He said he doesn't like to take tips because he doesn't want guests to think that he's helpful and nice just to get something from them.  He is grateful that these friends can make use of his knowledge of the area.

Juan recoiling in refusal of a tip

We know that Mario, his counterpart, is happy to take tips as he always puts a big tip jar out during his shift. He assures us this is a necessity to him as a student. He's been on scholarship for his maximum # of years.

Mario, the other receptionist

 Juan had invited us out to his house earlier in the week, so one morning we found ourselves on the 7:30am bus passing through Los Angeles on our way to Sacremento.  The driver let us out at a dirt road entrance and we walked the couple of kilometres down to the lakeshore then along it till the houses ended. The name he had printed on a card  for us had a neighbor usher us right to his door where we found him sitting with his little daughter and wife.

Our near refusal of food was taken as an insult so we accepted and were served up a huge breakfast of Gallo pinto, fried plantain, and fish.  There was so much food that we didn't eat another thing all day!

Breakfast at Juan's house

Our hosts for breakfast

We left on the 4:00pm ferry and caught the bus to Manaagua.  They were not going by Granada, so we'll leave that for another time.  We were, instead, dropped off at  Masaya, where we had to walk quite far and sometimes in circles (what with getting conflicting directions from different people) trying to find a  hostel. Finally found a place and settled in for a couple of nights.

"Stuck" on La Isla Ometepe

Tooth brushing station

Eileen

We are still in Moyogalpa but thinking to move on tomorrow. It seems the same way with everyone here, 'I'll leave tomorrow'. We've been totally packed once already!

We came straight to this hotel, 'Arenas Negras' (Black Sand). Location..Location..Location- only steps from the boat landing (We still had to hire someone to haul our 50 pound bags here, full of clothing to give away). I had stayed here 3 times before- alone (2000), with Mom and Carol Cunningham(2006), and with Michael Phillips(2008).

The Landing Hotel

Not so easy to find this time. It has been purchased by an American, John Tansy, and totally redone. No more  dark grey walls and questionable cleanliness. John hired a talented artist, Sioux Ryan, to decorate the rooms and hallways with flower motifs and cultural scenes. Hopefully she'll agree to come to Canada to FINALLY do a mural on my sidewall. The dirt floor is replaced with tasteful ceramic tile, a second and third floor built, with hammocks, exercise machines, and seating area with satellite television. The new name- The Landing Hotel (they're on Facebook and http://www.tripadviser.com/

- we did a critique).
We're staying in a 6-bed dorm. US$5/night





 


The Cabina Mom Stayed in- nice enough now for a honeymoon



Urinal







Our dorm. Nanette has the bed with the
mosquito netting







Caught Eileen Writing a Blog



Main lobby and restaurant




The bar







One of Sue's Works in our hallway



Nanette's bed with privacy screen

Earthbags building

Nanette:

Well, I guess plans are only meant to be changed!  Today (Monday) was to be our day to leave Ometepe.  Our bags were packed and we were all set to say our goodbyes to everyone.  Alas, as we were sitting out front this morning the church group that John brought in to build a house for Wilbur's mom stopped by on their way out to the house.  Well, being a curious lot, we (Nate, Eileen, Chris and I, as well as Nancy and Gary, who arrived yesterday)  set out after a while to see how things were going. 

Wilbur (on right) and his mom and brother

Very interesting!  They are building an earthbag house.  So far they have a circular trench dug and all tamped down.  They will be filling bags with sand and clay to build the walls.  Barbed wire gets added to the top of each row to hold it together and tamping happens on each new row.

Foundation trench

Well, anyway, we decided that we would like to see how things progress so we will be staying on Ometepe for another few days.

Went back to the earthbag house on Tuesday and they had added 3 more rows. their progress slowed considerably on Monday afternoon because they were waiting on a load of gravel.  They are planning to have it all completed by Friday.  I'm not too sure about that but we'll see.

Spoiling Myself

Eileen

I just returned from my second massage. The therapist is really good- fullbody including scalp, fingers and toes. She uses lots of oil and I feel like a greased pig just now, but a relaxed one!

She has a bonafide massage bed in a tiny room behind her family's beauty salon. It boasts a ceiling fan and round fluorescent tube light. Partway through, the power went off and I thought I'd swelter to death!

$15 US for an hour.

Cashew fruit and nut

Eileen and Simba